A process for creating shapes enclosing the margins of cut and
pre-shaped bra cups to embroider the same with a design without
sewing or riveting any other external decorative element with a
reduced production time.
What is claimed is:
1. A process for preparing preformed bra cups with a design comprising
preforming the bra cup to accommodate a woman's breast transferring
a pattern from which the pattern was cut in two dimensions, punching
a design formed on the bra cup incorporating an initial backstitch
serving as a stop within a cup margin to indicate where excess fabric
must be cut and then punching the rest of the design, covering the
bra cup and stitching finishing stitches in an oblique direction
to that of a cutting backstitch whereby tension exerted by threads
of fabric absorbs any excess fabric and exterior foam, placing the
resulting cup on an assembly table for an exact placement of the
cups, providing a layer of non-woven polyester interfacing with
a layer of water soluble material with a temporary spray adhesive
over the layer to hold the same in place and then removing the bra
The present invention refers to the procedure which allows the
specific and individual embroidering of the different edges or margins
of bra cups when the cup has already been cut with its pattern and
pre-shaped in its different sizes. Such procedure allows for a clean
embroidering and closing, without an excess of previous fabrics
while adding beauty with shapes to the different cup margins. The
invention of the procedure is directed towards increasing the possibilities
of applying embroidered designs within the lingerie, corset and
bath sectors; in cut and pre-shaped cups by applying said procedure
with a flat multi-head embroidering machine.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
The different embroidered products which have been applied to pre-shaped
cups are well-known. They can be fabrics and embroidered strips
on flat fabrics for their later cutting, adaptation and sewing through
a backstitching or riveted type of stitch, onto the cups. Embroidery
on fabrics which have been cut for said type of cups prior to their
pre-shaping process have also been performed. These have the inconvenience
of their deformation during the process, thereby limiting the possibilities
of application of all types of designs with perfect finishes, in
such specific situations, which are very much desired by the designer
or manufacturer. It is noteworthy to mention that with the previous
applications it is not possible to embroider the margins described
of a cup's fabric, whether it is a flat or pre-shaped fabric, for
its later lamination in a foam cup or another filling material because
it is impossible to give the same type of embroidery to the filling
piece and to fasten it during the lamination or lining process with
backstitching or riveting.
To avoid the inconveniences described, the holder of the present
invention David Sanchez del Olmo has developed a procedure. It is
the object of the request for a patent, which allows us to unitarily
embroider in the desired place on the bra cup once the cup has been
cut and pre-shaped, adapting the design desired by the manufacturer.
This would be based on the characteristics, sizes and dimensions
of the cup designed. This is a process which also takes into account
the fabric and its properties in order to perform an embroidery
in a novel way due to its design, adaptability and finished character
with a flat multi-head embroidering machine. This process could
not be performed previously. The main characteristics offered by
this procedure are: the new possibility of embroidering a pre-shaped
cup once it has been cut, in its different types; of simple fabric,
filling, laminating or lining with fabric. To exactly place the
required design on any point of said type of cup; to offer the new
possibility of placing the embroidering on the edges, stylizing
them with diverse shapes, according to the design, and also the
advantage of closing such edges with complete neatness with the
truces of the embroidery thread.
Another novelty that the aforementioned procedure offers is the
possibility of making combinations of fabrics on the cups described,
by joining both fabrics, in the same process, through the embroidery
sequence. This union would be perfectly integrated in the design
without any visible backstitch, rivet or excess fabric in the final
DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
The steps to follow in this procedure are: the study of the shape
and behavior of the cup and its fabric in order to avoid the possible
deformations or wrinkles by manually converting into two the three
dimensions of which the partial surface of the cup to be embroidered
consists. This is due to the fact that it has the property of having
the volume or cavity to accommodate the breasts. Once these possible
problems have been eliminated the exterior cup margins are transferred
to a flat surface such as design paper, thereby graphically obtaining
the original pattern, from which it was cut, in two dimensions.
Afterwards, it is scanned or put through a scaling table of any
program of embroidery creation.
Having obtained the image to real scale, through the methods described,
and visualizing them on the computer screen the task of punching
the design begins. This can vary according to the designer's or
manufacturer's preferences. They could now be able to perform floral,
geometric or other motifs of any sort. We must point out that the
first step as well as the punching process must be individually
performed on all the sizes in which the model will be embroidered.
All of the designs must incorporate an initial backstitch, serving
as a stop, within the cup margins because this will indicate to
us where we must cut the excess fabric. It would, thereby, turn
into the new shape of the exterior margin where the rest of the
embroidery will later be closed. Once the backstitching has been
traced, we proceed to the punching of the rest of the design. This
step must be well studied so that we do not go out of the margins
delimited by the backstitch, covering it and obtaining a clean and
precise finish without leaving any excess exterior fabric. This
would involve a specific type of stitch in each point of its course.
The directions of the finishing stitches must preferably be punched
in an oblique direction to that of the cutting backstitch, so that
the tension exerted in this direction by the threads on the fabrics
absorbs the possible excess fabric and exterior foam which we have
previously cut, following the initial cutting backstitch. It is
through this procedure that we obtain a perfect finish and closing
in the margins by which we have embroidered, and the possibility
of embroidering any type of design regardless of its degree of difficulty
according to its outline.
Once we have finished the punching process we print to real scale
the image of the cup that we obtained with the design traced in
the desired position on it (the cup). With this we will obtain a
positioning pattern. Afterwards, we place it on an assembly table,
preferably with transparency light, for an exact placement of the
cup to be embroidered. The pattern must be well placed on the assembly
table's coordinate axis. The coordinates indicate: the origin, center
and end of the embroidery with regards to the frame that will be
The exterior part of the frame must be placed in its corresponding
fastening supports on the table, for its later closing or assembling
with the opportune material. Depending on the type of design that
we will embroider, they are: a layer of non-woven polyester interfacing,
a layer of water soluble material or a layer of thermo-soluble plastic
material. Next, we proceed to apply a temporary spray adhesive over
the layer in order to hold and fasten and fix the cup on the pattern
that we have mounted on the assembly table's coordinate axis.
Once we have applied the spray we proceed to the manual assembly
of the cup, starting with the most convenient and easy way for this
purpose, exactly matching the pattern lines with the cup's actual
margins and trying not to provoke stretching nor wrinkles.
With the frame closed and the cup fixed on the layer of material
with which we have it mounted, we proceed to its machine assembly.
Once we have correctly positioned the machine's fastening supports
we begin the embroidering process, following some steps of the embroidery
sequence which was previously described. Once this has been completed,
the frame is disassembled, eliminating the remaining base material
whatever it may be.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
FIG. 1 is a view of the backstitch through the center of the piping;
FIG. 2 is a view of the backstitch and circle motifs.
FIG. 3 is a view of the outing backstitch, in piping stitch, the
wave which will draw and close the edge.
DESCRIPTION OF A PREFERRED EMBODIMENT
Following the steps described in the previous section, we will
perform the procedure of a preferred model which will consist of
embroidering while creating waves with interior details in circular
form and with a small backstitch, closing the waves margins, in
the upper interior edge or neckline of a cup which has been cut,
laminated on both sides, with an intermediate layer of foam and
We perform the study of its characteristics in order to obtain
both dimensions of the original paper pattern. We take the cup and
softly press the neckline margin down until we are able to set said
margin flat and with an approximate surface of about 2.5 cm below
it. We must carry out this step with extreme care in order to adhere,
as exactly as possible, to the curves and dimensions that have already
been traced for the cup's shape in this margin. It is very important
to not stretch the piece, because if this happens, the embroidery
will create an undulation or stretching when the piece returns to
the beginning. Taking into account what we have previously mentioned,
we trace with a pencil on a sheet of paper, the resulting exterior
shape. We now proceed to draw the motif to embroider on the same
paper, without going outside the pattern's contour lines and trying
to create a homogeneous and stylized wave with interior motifs.
These interior motifs consist of parts of backstitches which descent
from different points of the wave and which end in a circle.
We import the real scale image pattern to the creation program
through a scanner. We begin to punch a backstitch through the center
of the piping drawn by the exterior wave, serving as a stop at the
end (FIG. 1). Afterwards, we punch e backstitch and circle motifs
(FIG. 2) Finally, we punch obliquely to the cutting backstitch,
in piping stitch, the wave which will draw and close the edge (FIG.
Once the entire sequence has been reviewed, we print it. This image
now includes the pattern line, the design punched with the stitches
and their directions, all of this centered on a coordinate axes.
After performing the assembly, we take the frame to the machine's
fastening supports which must have the same center that we have
designated to the pattern. We load the embroidery program in the
machine's memory and we begin the sequence. Once the initial backstitching,
which acts as a stop, has been embroidered, we cut the excess fabric
from the external part of the wave manually with scissors. Now the
machine completes the rest of the embroidery.
Once we have finished this, we disassemble the piece by pulling
on one of the cup's ends, removing in the same fashion the excess
interfacing which remains on the backside of the embroidery in order
to obtain a clean finish.